Self-tanning composition containing a tetrahydrocurcuminoid and a self-tanning agent

ABSTRACT

The present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatological composition more particularly intended for artificially tanning and/or browning the skin and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support, at least one derivative or a mixture of derivatives of 1,7-bisphenyl heptane-3,5-dione of particular structure and at least one self-tanning agent.  
     The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process for artificially tanning or browning the skin and to the use of at least one derivative or a mixture of derivatives of 1,7-bisphenyl heptane-3,5-dione of particular structure for improving the coloration and/or stability of a self-tanning agent.  
     The invention also relates to the uses of these compositions for giving the skin a coloration close to that of a natural skin tan.

CROSS-REFERENCE TO PRIORITY/PROVISIONAL APPLICATIONS

[0001] This application claims priority under 35 U.S.C. § 119 ofFR-02/03934, filed Mar. 28, 2002, and of provisional application SerialNo. 60/377,958, filed May 7, 2002, both hereby expressly incorporated byreference. This application is also a continuation of said '958provisional.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] 1. Technical Field of the Invention

[0003] The present invention relates to a cosmetic and/or dermatologicalcomposition more particularly intended for artificially tanning and/orbrowning the skin and comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable support,at least one derivative or a mixture of derivatives of 1,7-bisphenylheptane-3,5-dione of particular structure and at least one self-tanningagent.

[0004] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic treatmentprocess for artificially tanning or browning the skin and to the use ofat least one derivative or a mixture of derivatives of 1,7-bisphenylheptane-3,5-dione of particular structure for improving the colorationand/or stability of a self-tanning agent.

[0005] The invention also relates to the uses of these compositions forgiving the skin a coloration close to that of a natural skin tan.

[0006] For the purposes of the present patent application, the term“self-tanning agent” means an agent which, when applied to the skin,especially to the face, gives a tanning effect that is more or lesssimilar in appearance to that which may result from prolonged exposureto sunlight (natural tan) or under a UV lamp.

[0007] 2. Description of the Prior Art

[0008] Nowadays, it is important to have a healthy appearance and tannedskin is always a sign of good health. However, natural tanning is notalways desirable since it requires prolonged exposure to UV radiation,in particular to UV-A radiation which causes tanning of the skin, but onthe other hand is liable to induce reactions or even impairment of theskin, especially in the case of sensitive skin or skin that iscontinually exposed to solar radiation: erythema, burns, loss ofelasticity, appearance of wrinkles, premature aging. It is thusdesirable to find an alternative to natural tanning, which is compatiblewith the requirements of such skin.

[0009] Most of the cosmetic products intended for artificially tanningthe skin are based on carbonyl derivatives allowing, by interaction withthe amino acids of the skin, the formation of colored products, amongwhich mention is made of mono- or polycarbonyl compounds such as, forexample, isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin, glyceraldehyde, mesotartaricaldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose and dihydroxyacetone (DHA).

[0010] DHA is a particularly advantageous product that is commonly usedin cosmetics as an agent for artificially tanning the skin; when appliedto the skin, especially to the face, it gives a tanning or browningeffect that is similar in appearance to that which may result fromprolonged exposure to sunlight (natural tanning) or under a UV lamp.

[0011] One drawback of DHA is the slow speed at which the colorationdevelops: in point of fact, it takes several hours (3 to 5 hours ingeneral) for the coloration to be developed. The intensity of thecoloration obtained on the skin and/or its staying power over time(resistance to washing) and/or the speed at which the colorationdevelops are often considered insufficient by the users of DHA-basedself-tanning compositions.

[0012] Another problem posed by DHA-based compositions is that they havethe annoying tendency, which is more or less pronounced depending on thenature of the medium in which they are formulated, of degrading overtime. These problems associated with the storage and/or conservation ofDHA-based compositions are generally reflected in the end by anundesirable yellowing of these compositions.

[0013] There is thus increasing demand for fast-acting self-tanningproducts that give a coloration close to that of a natural tan.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0014] Surprisingly and advantageously, the Applicant has found that theuse of at least one derivative or a mixture of derivatives of1,7-bisphenyl heptane-3,5-dione of particular structure of formula (I)as defined below improves the stability and/or coloration ofcompositions comprising a self-tanning agent. The colorations obtainedare more chromatic, more stable over time and show good homogeneity.

[0015] The composition according to the present invention comprises, ina cosmetically acceptable support, at least one derivative or a mixtureof derivatives of 1,7-bisphenyl heptane-3,5-dione of particularstructure of formula (I) as defined below and at least one self-tanningagent.

[0016] A subject of the present patent application is also the use ofthe composition according to the invention as a composition for tanningor browning the skin; and a cosmetic process for tanning or browning theskin such that it consists in applying to the skin an effective amountof a composition according to the invention.

[0017] Finally, the present patent application also relates to the useof at least one derivative or a mixture of derivatives of 1,7-bisphenylheptane-3,5-dione of particular structure of formula (I) as definedbelow in compositions for artificially tanning and/or browning the skin,containing at least one self-tanning agent, in order to improve thecoloration and/or stability of the said self-tanning agent.

[0018] Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the presentinvention will become apparent on reading the detailed description thatfollows.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF BEST MODE AND SPECIFIC/PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS OFTHE INVENTION

[0019] The 1,7-bisphenyl heptane-3,5-dione derivatives in accordancewith the invention correspond to formula (I) below:

[0020] in which:

[0021] R₁, R₂, R₃, R₄, R₅, R₆, R₇, R₈, R₉ and R₁₀, which may beidentical or different, are chosen from:

[0022] (i) a hydrogen atom;

[0023] (ii) a linear or branched C₁-C₄ alkyl radical;

[0024] (iii) a radical OR₁₁ in which R₁₁ is chosen from a hydrogen atom,a linear or branched C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, a radical PO(OX₁)(OX₂) or aradical SO₂(OX₃) in which X₁, X₂ and X₃, which may be identical ordifferent, denote a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal cation or NH₄ ⁺, X₁and X₂ together also possibly denoting a divalent metal cation;

[0025] (iv) an acyl radical R₁₂CO in which R₁₂ is chosen from C₁-C₃₀hydrocarbon-based radicals, which are linear or branched, saturated orunsaturated, hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated, and carboxylated ornon-carboxylated;

[0026] (v) a glycosyl or uronyl radical;

[0027] when a radical R₁ to R₁₀ denotes a residue OR₁₁, it may alsoform, with the aromatic ring to which it is attached and an adjacentradical, a ring containing 5 or 6 atoms;

[0028] it being understood that at least one of the radicals R₁ to R₁₀denotes a residue OR₁₁.

[0029] In formula (I) described above, the alkyl radicals may especiallydenote methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, n-propyl, butyl, n-butyl andtert-butyl radicals; the alkyl radical preferably denotes a methylradical.

[0030] In formula (I) described above, the glycosyl radical moreparticularly denotes a glucosyl radical.

[0031] In formula (I) described above, the uronyl radical moreparticularly denotes a mannuronyl or glucuronyl radical.

[0032] The compounds of formula (I) are known per se. Thetetrahydrocurcuminoids in accordance with the invention are obtained byreducing curcumin or synthesized as described in the articles “Synthesisand antibacterial activity of tetrahydrocurcuminoids; S. Venkateswarlu,M. Rambabu, G. V. Subbaraju and S. Satyanarayana; Asian Journal ofChemistry, 2000, 1, 141-144”, “Synthesis of naturally occurringcurcuminoids and related compounds; U. Pedersen, P. B. Rasmussen, S. O.Lawesson; Liebigs Ann. Chem., 1985, 1557-1569”, patent applications JP02 051 595, JP 02 069 431, JP 02 049 747 and JP 02 128 133, patent U.S.Pat. No. 5,266,344 and patent application WO 00/61162.

[0033] Among the compounds of formula (I) that are preferred accordingto the present invention, mention may be made of:

[0034] -1,7-bis(3-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl)heptane-3,5-dione ortetrahydrocurcumin (THC) of structure:

[0035] -1-(3-methoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-7-(4′-hydroxyphenyl)heptane-3,5-dione or tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin (THDC) of structure:

[0036] -1,7-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)heptane-3,5-dione ortetrahydrobis(demethoxy)curcumin (THBDC) of structure:

[0037] -1,7-bis(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)heptane-3,5-dione of structure:

[0038] and also mixtures thereof.

[0039] One particular form of the invention consists in using as solecompound of formula (1)1,7-bis(3-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl)heptane-3,5-dione ortetrahydrocurcumin (THC).

[0040] Another particular form of the invention consists in using amixture of compounds of formula (I) consisting of:

[0041] tetrahydrocurcumin,

[0042] tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, and

[0043] tetrahydrobis(demethoxy)curcumin.

[0044] A mixture consisting of:

[0045] 70% to 95% by weight of tetrahydrocurcumin,

[0046] 4% to 25% by weight of tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, and

[0047] 0.5% to 10% by weight of tetrahydrobis(demethoxy)-curcumin;

[0048] will be used more particularly, and even more particularly amixture consisting of:

[0049] 75% to 90% by weight of tetrahydrocurcumin,

[0050] 8% to 20% by weight of tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, and

[0051] 1% to 5% by weight of tetrahydrobis(demethoxy)curcumin forinstance the product described and synthesized in patent application WO00/61162 and sold by the company Sabinsa Corporation under the trademarkTetrahydrocurcuminoids CG or Tetrahydrocurcuminoids.

[0052] In general, the compound(s) of formula (I) present in thecomposition is (are) totally dissolved in the support for thecomposition.

[0053] The compounds of formula (I) according to the inventionpreferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight approximately relativeto the total weight of the cosmetic composition, more particularly from0.01% to 5% and even more preferably from 0.1% to 5% by weightapproximately relative to this weight.

[0054] The self-tanning agents are generally chosen from mono- orpolycarbonyl compounds such as, for example, isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin,glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose,pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivatives as described in patent applicationFR-2,466,492 and WO 97/35842, dihydroxyacetone (DHA), and4,4-dihydroxypyrazolin-5-one derivatives as described in patentapplication EP-903,342. DHA will preferably be used.

[0055] DHA may be used in free form and/or encapsulated, for example inlipid vesicles such as liposomes, described especially in patentapplication WO 97/25970.

[0056] These self-tanning agents may be combined with at least onesynthetic or natural direct dye and/or at least one indole derivative,for instance those described in patents EP-425,324 and EP-456,545.

[0057] These self-tanning agents may also be combined with othersynthetic or natural skin colorants.

[0058] For the purposes of the present invention, the term “skincolorant” will mean any compound with particular affinity for the skin,making it possible to give the skin a long-lasting, non-covering (i.e.,not having a tendency to opacify the skin) coloration and which is notremoved either with water or using a solvent, and which is resistantboth to rubbing and to washing with a solution containing surfactants.Such a long-lasting coloration is thus distinguished from thesuperficial and transient coloration provided, for example, by a makeuppigment.

[0059] The additional colorants may also be chosen, for example, fromplant extracts such as, for example, the “insoluble” extracts ofredwoods of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia, for instancePterocarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii,Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida, forinstance those described in patent application EP-971,683.

[0060] The additional colorants may also be chosen, for example, fromother plant extracts such as, for example, the sorghum extracts obtainedfrom the whole plant, the stems, the seeds or the leaves of the genusSorghum. The preferred species of Sorghum are chosen from Sorghumbicolor, Sorghum caudatum, Sorghum nervosum, Sorghum durra, Sorghumvulgare and Sorghum plants in combination with Colletotrichumgraminicola, for instance those described in patent applicationFR-0-200,251.

[0061] The colorants may also be iron oxide nanopigments, the mean sizeof the elementary particles of which is less than 100 nm, such as thosedescribed in patent application EP-966,953.

[0062] The self-tanning agents are generally present in the compositionsaccording to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1% to 10% byweight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferablyfrom 0.2% to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of thecomposition.

[0063] The self-tanning compositions in accordance with the inventionmay be in the form of creams, milks, gels, cream-gels, oil-in-wateremulsions, vesicular dispersions, fluid lotions, in particularvaporizable fluid lotions, or any other form generally used incosmetics, in particular those usually suitable for self-tanningcosmetic compositions.

[0064] The compositions in accordance with the present invention mayalso comprise standard cosmetic adjuvants, especially a cosmeticadjuvant chosen from fatty substances, organic solvents, ionic ornonionic thickeners, softeners, humectants, opacifiers, stabilizers,emollients, silicones, antifoams, insect repellants, fragrances,preserving agents, anionic, cationic, nonionic, zwitterionic oramphoteric surfactants, substance P antagonists, CGRP antagonists,fillers, polymers, propellants, acidifying or basifying agents or anyother ingredient usually used in cosmetics and/or dermatology, inparticular for the manufacture of self-tanning compositions in the formof emulsions.

[0065] The fatty substances may consist of an oil or a wax or mixturesthereof. The term “oil” means a compound that is liquid at roomtemperature. The term “wax” means a compound that is solid orsubstantially solid at room temperature, and whose melting point isgenerally greater than 35° C.

[0066] Oils that may be mentioned include mineral oils (paraffin); plantoils (sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, blackcurrant pip oil, jojobaoil); synthetic oils, for instance perhydrosqualene, fatty alcohols,fatty acids or fatty esters (for instance the C₁₂-C₁₅ alkyl benzoatesold under the trademark “Finsolv TN” by the company Finetex, octylpalmitate, isopropyl lanolate, triglycerides, including those ofcapric/caprylic acids, oxyethylenated or oxypropylenated fatty estersand ethers; silicone oils (cyclomethicone, polydimethylsiloxanes orPDMS) or fluoro oils; polyalkylenes, and mixtures thereof.

[0067] Waxy compounds that may be mentioned include paraffin, carnaubawax, beeswax and hydrogenated castor oil.

[0068] Among the organic solvents that may be mentioned are loweralcohols and polyols containing up to 8 carbon atoms.

[0069] The thickeners may be chosen especially from crosslinkedpolyacrylic acids, and modified or unmodified guar gums and celluloses,such as hydroxypropyl guar gum, methylhydroxyethylcellulose andhydroxypropylmethylcellulose.

[0070] The compositions in accordance with the invention may alsocomprise at least one organic photoprotective agent and/or at least onemineral photoprotective agent that is (are) UVA-active and/or UVB-active(absorbent) and that is (are) water-soluble or liposoluble or eveninsoluble in the cosmetic solvents commonly used.

[0071] The ultraviolet-screening agents may be chosen from organicUV-screening agents and mineral UV-screening agents, or mixturesthereof.

[0072] The organic UV-screening agents in accordance with the inventionmay be water-soluble, liposoluble or insoluble in the usual cosmeticsolvents. They are chosen especially from anthranilates; cinnamicderivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives; salicylic derivatives;camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives such as those described inpatent applications U.S. Pat. No. 4,367,390, EP-863,145, EP-517,104,EP-570,838, EP-796,851, EP-775,698, EP-878,469 and EP-933,376,;benzophenone derivatives, especially those described in patentapplications EP-A-1,046,391 and DE-100,12,408; β,β′-diphenylacrylatederivatives; benzotriazole derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives;imidazolines; bis-benzazolyl derivatives as described in patentsEP-669,323 and U.S. Pat. No. 2,463,264; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA)derivatives; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives asdescribed in patent applications U.S. Pat. Nos. 5,237,071, 5,166,355,GB-2,303,549, DE-197,26,184 and EP-893,119; screening polymers andscreening silicones such as those described especially in patentapplication WO 93/04665; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene, such asthose described in patent application DE-198,55,649, 4,4-diarylbutadienederivatives such as those described in patent applications EP-0-967,200,DE-197,55,649 and EP-133,981; amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenonessuch as the structures described in EP-1-046,391 and EP-1-133,980; andmixtures thereof.

[0073] As examples of organic screening agents, mention may be made ofthe following, denoted hereinbelow under their INCI name:

[0074] Para-Aminobenzoic Acid Derivatives:

[0075] PABA,

[0076] Ethyl PABA,

[0077] Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA,

[0078] Ethylhexyl dimethyl PABA sold in particular under the name“Escalol 507” by ISP,

[0079] Glyceryl PABA,

[0080] PEG-25 PABA sold under the name “Uvinul P25” by BASF.

[0081] Salicylic Derivatives:

[0082] Homosalate sold under the name “Eusolex HMS” by Rona/EMIndustries,

[0083] Ethylhexyl salicylate sold under the name “Neo 20 Heliopan OS” byHaarmann and Reimer,

[0084] Dipropylene glycol salicylate sold under the name “Dipsal” byScher,

[0085] TEA salicylate sold under the name “Neo Heliopan TS” by Haarmannand Reimer.

[0086] Dibenzoylmethane Derivatives:

[0087] Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane sold in particular under thetrademark “Parsol 1789” by Hoffmann LaRoche,

[0088] Isopropyldibenzoylmethane.

[0089] Cinnamic Derivatives:

[0090] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold in particular under thetrademark “Parsol MCX” by Hoffmann LaRoche,

[0091] Isopropyl methoxycinnamate,

[0092] Isoamyl methoxycinnamate sold under the trademark “Neo Heliopan E1000” by Haarmann and Reimer,

[0093] Cinoxate,

[0094] DEA methoxycinnamate,

[0095] Diisopropyl methoxycinnamate,

[0096] Glyceryl ethylhexanoate dimethoxycinnamate.

[0097] β,β′-Diphenylacrylate Derivatives:

[0098] Octocrylene sold in particular under the trademark “Uvinul N539”by BASF

[0099] Etocrylene sold in particular under the trademark “Uvinul N35” byBASF.

[0100] Benzophenone Derivatives:

[0101] Benzophenone-1 sold under the trademark “Uvinul 400” by BASF,

[0102] Benzophenone-2 sold under the trademark “Uvinul D50” by BASF,

[0103] Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trademark “UvinulM40” by BASF,

[0104] Benzophenone-4 sold under the trademark “Uvinul MS40” by BASF,

[0105] Benzophenone-5,

[0106] Benzophenone-6 sold under the trademark “Helisorb 11” by Norquay,

[0107] Benzophenone-8 sold under the trademark “Spectra-Sorb UV-24” byAmerican Cyanamid,

[0108] Benzophenone-9 sold under the trademark “Uvinul DS-49” by BASF,

[0109] Benzophenone-12

[0110] n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate.

[0111] Benzylidenecamphor Derivatives:

[0112] 3-Benzylidenecamphor manufactured under the name “Mexoryl SD” byChimex,

[0113] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor sold under the name “Eusolex 6300” byMerck,

[0114] Benzylidenecamphorsulphonic acid manufactured under the name“Mexoryl SL” by Chimex,

[0115] Camphor benzalkonium methosulphate manufactured under the name“Mexoryl SO” by Chimex,

[0116] Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulphonic acid manufactured under thename “Mexoryl SX” by Chimex,

[0117] Polyacrylamidomethylbenzylidenecamphor manufactured under thename “Mexoryl SW” by Chimex.

[0118] Phenylbenzimidazole Derivatives:

[0119] Phenylbenzimidazolesulphonic acid sold in particular under thetrademark “Eusolex 232” by Merck,

[0120] Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulphonate, sold under thetrademark “Neo Heliopan AP” by Haarmann and Reimer.

[0121] Triazine Derivatives:

[0122] Anisotriazine sold under the trademark “Tinosorb S” by Ciba Geigy

[0123] Ethylhexyltriazone sold in particular under the trademark “UvinulT150” by BASF,

[0124] Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone sold under the trademark “UvasorbHEB” by Sigma 3V.

[0125] Phenylbenzotriazole Derivatives:

[0126] Drometrizole trisiloxane sold under the name “Silatrizole” byRhodia Chimie,

[0127] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutylphenol sold in solidform under the trademark “MIXXIM BB/100” by Fairmount Chemical, or inmicronized form as an aqueous dispersion under the trademark “TinosorbM” by Ciba Specialty Chemicals.

[0128] Anthranilic Derivatives:

[0129] Menthyl anthranilate sold under the trademark “Neo Heliopan MA”by Haarmann and Reimer.

[0130] Imidazoline Derivatives:

[0131] Ethylhexyldimethoxybenzylidenedioxoimidazoline propionate.

[0132] Benzalmalonate Derivatives:

[0133] Polyorganosiloxane containing benzalmalonate functions, asPolysilicone-15 sold under the trademark “Parsol SLX” by HoffmannLaRoche.

[0134] 4,4-diarylbutadiene Derivatives:

[0135] 1,1-dicarboxy (2,2′-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene andmixtures thereof.

[0136] The organic UV-screening agents that are more particularlypreferred are chosen from the following compounds:

[0137] Ethylhexyl salicylate,

[0138] Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane,

[0139] Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate,

[0140] Octocrylene,

[0141] Phenylbenzimidazolesulphonic acid,

[0142] Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulphonic acid,

[0143] Benzophenone-3,

[0144] Benzophenone-4,

[0145] Benzophenone-5,

[0146] n-hexyl 2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate,

[0147] 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor,

[0148] Benzimidazilate,

[0149] Anisotriazine,

[0150] Ethylhexyltriazone,

[0151] Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone,

[0152] Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutyl-phenol,

[0153] Drometrizole trisiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

[0154] The mineral photoprotective agents are chosen from pigments ornanopigments (mean size of the primary particles: generally between 5 nmand 100 nm and preferably between 10 nm and 50 nm) of coated or uncoatedmetal oxides such as, for example, nanopigments of titanium oxide(amorphous or crystallized in rutile and/or anatase form), of ironoxide, of zinc oxide, of zirconium oxide or of cerium oxide, andmixtures thereof. Standard coating agents are, moreover, alumina and/oraluminum stearate. Such coated or uncoated metal oxide nanopigments aredescribed in particular in patent applications EP-518,772 andEP-518,773.

[0155] The photoprotective agents are generally present in thecompositions according to the invention in proportions ranging from 0.1%to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, andpreferably ranging from 0.2% to 15% by weight relative to the totalweight of the composition.

[0156] Needless to say, a person skilled in the art will take care toselect the abovementioned optional additional compound(s) and/or theamounts thereof such that the advantageous properties intrinsicallyassociated with the combination in accordance with the invention arenot, or are not substantially, adversely affected by the envisagedaddition(s).

[0157] The compositions according to the invention may be preparedaccording to techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art,in particular those intended for preparing emulsions of oil-in-water orwater-in-oil type.

[0158] This composition may be in particular in the form of a simple orcomplex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W emulsion) such as a cream ora milk, or in the form of a gel or a cream-gel, in the form of a lotion,a powder or a solid tube, and may optionally be packaged as an aerosoland be in the form of a mousse or a spray.

[0159] Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are inthe form of an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion.

[0160] When it is an emulsion, the aqueous phase of this emulsion maycomprise a nonionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to knownprocesses (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol. 13, 238 (1965),FR-2,315,991 and FR-2,416,008).

[0161] The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment process forartificially tanning and/or browning the skin, characterized in that itconsists in applying to the skin an effective amount of a cosmeticcomposition as defined above.

[0162] The invention also relates to the use of at least one derivativeor a mixture of derivatives of 1,7-bisphenyl heptane-3,5-dione offormula (I) as defined above, with the aim of improving the colorationand/or stability of a self-tanning agent such as those defined above,contained in a cosmetic composition for artificially tanning and/orbrowning the skin.

[0163] In order to further illustrate the present invention and theadvantages thereof, the following specific examples are given, it beingunderstood that same are intended only as illustrative and in nowiselimitative.

[0164] In the composition below, the amounts are expressed in grams.TABLE I COMPOSITION OF THE INVENTION AMOUNT (GRAMS)Hydroxypropylmethylcellulose 2 Glycerol 5 Propylene glycol 10 Absoluteethanol 10 Dihydroxyacetone 4 Mixture of tetrahydrocurcuminoids of 1formula (I) (Tetrahydrocurcuminoids CG from Sabinsa) Demineralized waterqs 100 g

[0165] Each patent, patent application and literature article/reportcited or indicated herein is hereby expressly incorporated by reference.

[0166] While the invention has been described in terms of variousspecific and preferred embodiments, the skilled artisan will appreciatethat various modifications, substitutions, omissions, and changes may bemade without departing from the spirit thereof. Accordingly, it isintended that the scope of the present invention be limited solely bythe scope of the following claims, including equivalents thereof.

What is claimed is:
 1. A topically applicable cosmetic/dermatologicalcomposition suited for the artificial tanning or browning of human skin,comprising (a) at least one self-tanning agent and (b) at least onetetrahydrocurcumin compound or derivative thereof, formulated into (c) atopically applicable cosmetically/dermatologically acceptable supporttherefor.
 2. The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim1, said at least one tetrahydrocurcumin compound or derivative thereofcomprising a 1,7-diphenyl-3,5-heptanedione having the followingstructural formula (I):

in which the radicals R₁, R₂, R₃, R₄, R₅, R₆, R₇, R₈, R₉ and R₁₀, whichmay identical or different, are each (i) a hydrogen atom; (ii) a linearor branched C₁-C₄ alkyl radical; (iii) a radical OR₁₁ in which R₁₁ is ahydrogen atom, a linear or branched C₁-C₄ alkyl radical, a radicalPO(OX₁)(OX₂) or a radical SO₂(OX₃) in which X₁, X₂ and X₃, which may beidentical or different, are each a hydrogen atom or an alkali metalcation or NH₄ ⁺, with the proviso that X₁ and X₂ may together be adivalent metal cation; (iv) an acyl radical R₁₂CO in which R₁₂ is aC₁-C₃₀ hydrocarbon radical, which may be linear or branched, saturatedor unsaturated, hydroxylated or nonhydroxylated, carboxylated ornoncarboxylated; (v) a glycosyl or uronyl radical; with the provisothat, when a radical R₁ to R₁₀ is a radical OR₁₁, it can also form withthe aromatic ring to which it is bonded and an adjacent radical a ringmember containing 5 or 6 atoms; with the proviso that the radicals OR₃and OR₈ may together form with the aromatic ring to which they arebonded and the radicals R₂ or R₄ and R₇ or R₉ a ring member containing 5or 6 atoms; and with the further proviso that at least one of theradicals R₁ to R₁₀ is a radical OR₁₁.
 3. The cosmetic/dermatologicalcomposition as defined by claim 2, said at least one compound of formula(I) being selected from the group consisting of: (a)1,7-bis(3-methoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)heptane-3,5-dione ortetrahydrocurcumin (THC) having the structure:

(b) 1-(3-methoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)-7-(4′-hydroxyphenyl) heptane-3,5-dioneor tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin (THDC) having the structure:

(c) 1,7-bis(4-hydroxyphenyl)heptane-3,5-dione ortetrahydrobisdemethoxycurcumin (THBDC) having the structure:

(d) 1,7-bis(3,4-dihydroxyphenyl)heptane-3,5-dione having the structure:

and (e) also mixtures thereof.
 4. The cosmetic/dermatologicalcomposition as defined by claim 3, said at least one compound of formula(I) solely being 1,7-bis(3-methoxy-4-hydroxyphenyl)heptane-3,5-dione ortetrahydrocurcumin (THC).
 5. The cosmetic/dermatological composition asdefined by claim 2, said at least one compound of formula (I) comprisinga mixture of tetrahydrocurcumin, tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, andtetrahydrobis(demethoxy)curcumin.
 6. The cosmetic/dermatologicalcomposition as defined by claim 5, said at least one compound of formula(I) comprising a mixture of 70% to 95% by weight of tetrahydrocurcumin,4% to 25% by weight of tetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, and 0.5% to 10% byweight of tetrahydrobis(demethoxy)curcumin.
 7. Thecosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 6, said at leastone compound of formula (I) comprising a mixture of 75% to 90% by weightof tetrahydrocurcumin, 8% to 20% by weight oftetrahydrodemethoxycurcumin, and 1% to 5% by weight oftetrahydrobis(demethoxy)-curcumin.
 8. The cosmetic/dermatologicalcomposition as defined by claim 2, said at least one compound of formula(I) comprising from 0.001% to 10% by weight thereof.
 9. Thecosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 2, said at leastone compound of formula (I) comprising from 0.01% to 5% by weightthereof.
 10. The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim2, said at least one compound of formula (I) comprising from 0.1% to 5%by weight thereof.
 11. The cosmetic/dermatological composition asdefined by claim 1, said at least one self-tanning agent comprising amono- or polycarbonyl compound.
 12. The cosmetic/dermatologicalcomposition as defined by claim 11, said at least one self-tanning agentbeing selected from the group consisting of isatin, alloxan, ninhydrin,glyceraldehyde, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, erythrulose,pyrazoline-4,5-dione derivatives, dihydroxyacetone (DHA) and4,4-dihydroxypyrazoline-5-dione derivatives.
 13. Thecosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 12, said atleast one self-tanning agent comprising DHA.
 14. Thecosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 1, said at leastone self-tanning agent comprising from 0.1% to 10% by weight thereof.15. The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 1,comprising at least one synthetic or natural direct dye, and/or at leastone indole derivative.
 16. The cosmetic/dermatological composition asdefined by claim 1, further comprising an “insoluble” extract ofredwoods of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia.
 17. Thecosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 1, furthercomprising iron oxide nanopigments, the mean size of the elementaryparticles of which is less than 100 nm.
 18. The cosmetic/dermatologicalcomposition as defined by claim 1, further comprising at least one fattysubstance, organic solvent, ionic or nonionic thickener, softener,humectant, opacifier, stabilizer, emollient, silicone, antifoam, insectrepellant, fragrance, preservative, anionic, cationic, nonionic,zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactant, substance P antagonist, CGRPantagonist, filler, polymer, propellant, acidifying or basifying agentor any other conventional cosmetics and/or dermatology additive oradjuvant.
 19. The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined byclaim 1, further comprising at least one organic photoprotective agentand/or at least one mineral photoprotective agent that is (are)UVA-active and/or UVB-active.
 20. The cosmetic/dermatologicalcomposition as defined by claim 19, comprising at least one organicphotoprotective agent selected from the group consisting ofanthranilates; cinnamic derivatives; dibenzoylmethane derivatives;salicylic derivatives; camphor derivatives; triazine derivatives;benzophenone derivatives; β,β′-diphenylacrylate derivatives;benzotriazole derivatives; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazolines;bis-benzazolyl derivatives; p-aminobenzoic acid (PABA) derivatives;methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) derivatives; screening polymersand screening silicones; dimers derived from α-alkylstyrene;4,4-diarybutadiene derivatives; amino-substituted hydroxybenzophenones;and mixtures thereof.
 21. The cosmetic/dermatological composition asdefined by claim 20, said at least one organic photoprotective agentbeing selected from the group consisting of: Ethylhexyl salicylate,Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, Octocrylene,Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, Terephthalylidenedicamphorsulfonicacid, Benzophenone-3, Benzophenone-4, Benzophenone-5, n-hexyl2-(4-diethylamino-2-hydroxybenzoyl)benzoate, 4-Methylbenzylidenecamphor,Disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, Anisotriazine,Ethylhexyltriazone, Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone,Methylenebis(benzotriazolyl)tetramethylbutyl-phenol, Drometrizoletrisiloxane, Polysilicone-15 1,1-dicarboxy(2,2′-dimethyl-propyl)-4,4-diphenylbutadiene, and mixtures thereof. 22.The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 19,comprising at least one mineral photoprotective agent selected from thegroup consisting of coated or uncoated metal oxide pigments ornanopigments.
 23. The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined byclaim 22, said at least one mineral photoprotective agent being selectedfrom the group consisting of coated or uncoated nanopigments of titaniumoxide, of iron oxide, of zinc oxide, of zirconium oxide or of ceriumoxide, and mixtures thereof.
 24. The cosmetic/dermatological compositionas defined by claim 19, said at least one photoprotective agentcomprising from 0.1% to 20% by weight thereof.
 25. Thecosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim 19, said atleast one of photoprotective agent comprising from 0.2% to 15% by weightthereof.
 26. The cosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim1, formulated as a nonionic vesicular dispersion, an emulsion, anemulsion of water-in-oil type, of oil-in-water type, a cream or a tripleemulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O emulsion), a milk, a gel, a cream-gel, asuspension, a dispersion, a mousse or a spray.
 27. A regime or regimenfor the artificial tanning or browning of human skin, comprisingtopically applying thereon a thus effective amount of thecosmetic/dermatological composition as defined by claim
 1. 28. A methodfor improving the coloration and/or stability of at least oneself-tanning agent, comprising formulating therewith at least onetetrahydrocurcumin compound or derivative thereof.